Kazakhstan birdwatching - Day III

 Sunrise in the steppes

The third day we woke up early again, just as the sun was rising and went on the tiny hill not far from our camp to again try to look for gazellas and bustards. No bustards today, only everpresent calandra and short-toed larks. And gazellas again.

Morning in the steppes. Waiting for bustards and enjoying the warm light.

We stood on the hill and spread to several small hills nearby, but no group was successful. We stayed maybe for around an hour before returning to the camp, packing our stuff and moving to another place. We had a Greated Short-toed Lark say its goodbye to us right by our tent.

Greater Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla)

Before leaving this place completely, we stopped nearby at a seemingly random place in the steppe. Honestly, it looks the same anywhere. But for some reason our guide told us we can look for Caspian Plovers here. Our group, to be more precise. The other half - photographers - went to the well waiting for the sandgrouses again.

Looking for a Caspian Plover

Our group spread out into a line, each person around 50 m away from the next one and we walked in a direction of a farm to see if someone sees or startles the plover who would then take off. Apparently it sometimes nests here. Unfortunately we were not lucky. 

Horse skull

We did not see many birds here. Until we reached the farm, where we could see a lot of wheatears, mynas, and other, rather common songbirds. OUr guide was nervous and wanted us not long to stay as he said the owners weren't very welcoming to guests. And farms like these usually have dogs etc. Yep, they had three. One ran to me, not a big one, and although people would back away, it was just wagging its tail and wanted a nice cuddle. It was hard to resist for me, especially since the dog did not seem to be taken a great care of, but I could do nothing, so I had better not befriend it so it doesn't follow us. 
Near that farm there was also something like a cattle graveyard. Apparently, when cattle was slaughtered, the remains were just thrown away behind the farm. Some were just skeletons, some not yet... This horse skull and other bones were found further away, in the steppe. 

Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis) near the well. A very shy bird.

Since we were unsuccessful, we still had some time to visit the nearby well. The one we met the cattle herd at before. We sat down near the water and just watched for birds. We saw Grey-headed Buntings as well as Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Wagtails and a family of Hoopoes.

Hoopoe (Upupa epops) mom doing all she can to feed her already nearly adult offspring.

 The chicks were big and unrecognizable from the mom, except for their behavior. The youngsters were following their mom and being annoying, while the mom was foraging for something to eat as hard as she could and when she found something she'd put it straight into the throat of her chicks. Poor bird had to work really hard.

Demoiselle Cranes (Anthropoides virgo)

On our way back we stopped when we once again met the Demoiselle Cranes. 
Since not everyone has been there yet - namely the photographer group - everyone this time went to the location of that one big tree to watch birds who nest here. I already spent some time there before and there was a crowd now below the tree, so I also went to the other side of the road to look for Pipits. I had a hunch one of the birds we saw yesterday was a Richard's Pipit and I wanted to look for it, but was unsuccessful. Looks like it's all Tawny Pipits here.

Tawny Pipit (Anthus campestris) in its typical habitat

I still had some time to return to the tree, but no new species today. Only it rained again. I mean, they say here in the nearly desserts, t rains for only a few days in a year. For us it has been every day since we've arrived. Bad luck?

Syke's Warbler (Iduna rama) in the big tree

After everyone took a good look at the birds here, we hopped back into the cars and went for a lunch in the same restaurant again, where we got plenty of beer. Except me. I don't drink beer, but I got my share of Coke and tea and filled up my travel mug with tea as well :)

Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus) we met on our way for lunch

Me and my dad ate our share and left the table to go watch some bird at few small trees and buildings nearby. Before anyone else got here, we saw the species we were looking for - Dessert Finch. Askar said we have a last good chance to see them here today, so we should watch carefully. How lucky were we? When the rest of the group got ou and we wavd at them excitedly, the pair of birds already flew away, but not too far, so we spent some time looking for them so everyone could see.

A pair of Desert Finches (Rhodospiza obsoleta). Our exclusive view. They have nice pastel pink in their wings!

Me and my dad ate our share and left the table to go watch some bird at few small trees and buildings nearby. Before anyone else got here, we saw the species we were looking for - Dessert Finch. Askar said we have a last good chance to see them here today, so we should watch carefully. How lucky were we? When the rest of the group got ou and we wavd at them excitedly, the pair of birds already flew away, but not too far, so we spent some time looking for them so everyone could see.

Asian Desert Warbler (Sylvia nana) 

Right after we hit the road again. This time our destination was Topar. But we did not go without a stop. Actually there was a place Askar said has a nice habitat where we could possibly see a shrike or a Rufous Scrub Robin and maybe others. It wasn't a wasteland anymore. Well, not completely. The place was made of small hills and valleys, all the hills of a similar size so it was hard to see what came next. Everytime we climbed on one hill, we saw a valley and another hill. Not sure how vast the place was, but we sure did not go anywhere near the end and we did pass many horizons. 

Askar told us we had maybe 40 minutes or so to walk around and see. It was hot. Very hot. I learned that any time we exit the bus, I shoul always take my hat, the bird book and obviously, my binoculars. Because even when it seems we'll be back in a minute or two, it isn't always so. Like now. I followed my strategy to follow Askar. It has a lot of benefits: First, I won't get back to the bus too soon nor too late, because it kinda happens according to Askar. Second, I won't get lost and will be surely led to the nice spots. Third, Askar has the voice recordings - he can attract birds. Fourth: He somehow always finds the good species and can help with identification. 

Asian Desert Warbler (Sylvia nana) jerking its tail exaggeratingly

 Therefore me, my dad, and one friend of ours followed Askar. Not tailing him, but we kept close and ommunicated. I really, really, really wanted to see the Scrub Robin, so I was watchful for bright orange tails. Until I spotted one! It was fairly small and quick, though. But it was in the scrubs and flashing the tail. Askar played the voice, but the bird did ot react. Until it flew to another shrub and it turned to be one of four Asian Desert Warblers. Aww, they were so cute! Jerking the tails and always on the move, we were able to come quite close, but they were still hard to take a picture of in the scrubs. 

We continued further and further, when I styed a bit behind, watching a Brown-headed Bunting or something, when my dad called to me: "Scrub Robin!" I ran through the valley and up the hill like crazy, but the Robin was gone. I was sprinting from one place to another if someone said something moved. Until, yes there it was! A beautiful Scrub Robin running on the ground, fanning its tail and wings as crazy. It must be really tiring, but the bird wouldn't stop. We followed it from a while, from one shrub to another, until it flew away. We had to turn back towards the car now.

Rufous Scrub Robin (Cercotrichas galactotes) also jerking its wings and long, bright orange tail

We have long since lost sight of other people from our group and time sure flies by when you have birds to watch and look for. We have passed so many horizons! We climbed on one and there was a next, looking just the same. And next and next and next, and no sign of a road or the busses. When we returned, I was very, very thirsty, just somehow putting my feet in front of each other to finally get to my water bottle. It turned out we were away for maybe an hour and a half... with the rest of the group waiting a little angrily. Some have also seen a Scrub Robin and a friend took a picture of the Shrike we did not find. We were, I think, the only ones proudly announcing the Desert Warblers. It was a trip worth making. And the habitat was a bit ethereal, too.

Western Marsh-harrier (Circus aeruginosus) flying over the reeds.

We arrived to our destination right for (a late) dinnertime. We were accomodated in a camp, not with tents but huts. When we learned about where the only working outdoor shower was, my dad and I were very fast to be the first there. It was cold, but still good. I felt very filthy from all the sweat, dirt, etc. There were also a couple of baňas - Russian saunas, but I didn't really know the other women (there were other three with us) well enough to go and ask if they wanted to go there with me. And going alone, keeping the sauna for myself felt like a waste.

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